The less messy way is to remove the passenger side (double check that) cooler line and use a 5/16" ID tube into a bucket, start the engine and shut the engine off when the fluid starts to sputter. I would drop the pan and change the fluid that came out with the pan and the filter, the filter is key for longevity. The fluid looks to have a slight pinkish hue so that's good. It's hard to find Dex III anymore, anyway (although I do have one place around here that still sells it). Use Dexron VI, instead it's backward-compatible, and GM specifies it for vehicles that were running the older spec. One last thing - depending on the year of your truck, it may specify Dexron III as the replacement. If you want to really get fancy / be fastidious, you can get the fitting adapter that's used for installing external trans coolers, fasten it to the upper outlet in the radiator, connect it to the tubing, and you're all set (it's also a safer way, if you're doing it all by yourself.) Besides the gallon jug, you'll also want some clear tubing, so you can see when the fluid starts running clear. If you have an assistant, it's pretty much child's play, but you *can* do it on your own - I did, using the method I mentioned, above. There are places that don't use 'reverse' flushing they can be OK to use, if you're not a DIY kind of guy. That's also when you wind up doing a rebuild or replacement on them. Those are the things that dislodge the small pieces of wear items that have been collecting in the trans, and would be in a 'safe' spot, except for the flushing machine coming along and moving them around into places where they harm the functionality of the unit. The thing you *don't* want to do is have a machine 'reverse flush' the trans, or add some sort of cleaning solution to their machine. There are also other threads by people here showing how they did it, as well. And I think I have a post somewhere on this site on how I did this, in detail. I used a gallon jug with each quart marked off / dashed line across the outside, so I could see it from the driver's seat and turn the key off, each time. Do it after the pan drop / filter change / fluid refill, as that'll be 5 less quarts you need to worry about, and wastes the least amount of fluid. You'll need about 15-16 quarts of fluid, and you'll be letting the car pump out 1-2 quarts of fluid, then shutting it off and replacing that same amount. If you want to do a more thorough job with fluid replacement, you can do a fluid replacement yourself. Since you're saying that the fluid doesn't smell sweet / look pink, I don't see the harm in doing a pan drop / filter change / refill w/ 5qts of new fluid. If it does go out at some future point, figure that you got your money's worth out of the OEM / stock trans. Not to scare you, but you're about at the mileage where the 4L60e in our trucks give their last, and need repair / rebuild / replacement (take your pick). The worse situation is when the trans fluid gets overly hot shifts will get *really* firm, then.Īnyway, if you don't know *any* maintenance history, some people say "leave it as-is", with that mileage. Harder shifting when cold isn't unheard of the ECU (or TCM, if you have an '05 and up) increases line pressure when the trans is not yet up to operating temperature.
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